VID: Teac X-2000R inside

As I explained in the previous entry, I had to fix a tension arm problem with my Teac X-2000R, so after fixing it, I shot this video showing some inside views of the deck and how the capstan belt changes its position depending on which play direction is selected.

This happens because the capstan wheels have two parts, one with a diameter bigger than the other, so that when the forward direction is selected, the belt accomodates the position where the right capstan wheel spins a little faster than the left one, and the opposite, when the reverse direction is selected, the left capstan wheel spins a little faster than the right capstan wheel.

VID / REP: Teac X-2000R tension arms

Although my Teac X-2000R was almost mint, from the first moment the tension arms fluctuated when it was in play mode, both forward or reverse.

I swapped both tension arms guide rollers but the problem persisted.

I opened the deck trying to figure out which was the problem. The auto-tension system is basically the same as the one found in the Grundig TS-1000. Each tension arm has a small plate attached in the inside and passes near a photodetector so that when the tension arm is in the lower position, the motor power goes up, and when the arm goes to a higher position, the tension applied to the motor goes down.

Here is a video shot from the inside of the machine:

I tried to adjust the position of the photodetectors and even the trimmers that adjust the tension, but no luck, the problem still happening.

The tension arm axis is a screw that has springs. I realized that when I manipulated the screw, the height position of the tension arm varied. I adjusted this screw with the machine in play mode with a tape threaded so that I can watch the results in real time. I minimal adjustement was needed to watch the tension arm stops its oscillation.

In appearance, this was a rare failure, because most times whis happen is caused by old motors and/or poor lubricated rollers and arms, but in this case, both rollers are in perfect shape and the motors too.

Here is another video with the final result after the adjustement:

VID: Pioneer RT-1020H spinning at 15 ips

This deck eat tape very fast when runs at 38 cms / 15 ips, but spins really fast when it's used 7" reels.

In the video can be also watched all the buttons and lettering in detail.

VID / TIP: Trashing a sticky tape

If you have bought a tape and resulted to be sticky, or a tape that you already had and is completly useless for you once you have made a copy of the content, maybe you have asked yourself how to remove the tape but keeping the reel for future use as take up reel or to be fulled with other tape.

The first step is to be sure that your tape has the sticky shed syndrome. I usually do this method:

Once is threaded by the tape path, press FF and if you note than after one minute, it goes slow, press RWD. If the tape travels very slow or even can't travel, then is a sticky tape:

Well, now how to do with the tape to trash it fast and keep the reel without having as a result a never ending spaguetti tape incident:

I use a NAB hub without flanges, just the hub, but to get at least the correct aligment position as if were with a flange, I use a CD as a separator.

Easy and fast.

VID: Pioneer RT-909 inside

Today I've had to open the deck to make some mechanical adjustements, so I shot this video where is shown both external and internal parts of it in detail together with all transport functions from both points of view.