REEL TO REEL

VID: Pioneer RT-1020H

2011-01-01T19:15:00.004+01:00

After change the capstan belt I shot this short video showing the Pioneer RT-1020H playing back the "Ghost In The Shell 2: Innocence" OST recorder hot at 19 cm/s (7.5 ips) on a Basf LP35 tape.

REP: Changing the Pioneer RT-1020H capstan belt

2010-11-20T20:19:00.004+01:00

Easy, very easy. You won't need more than 15 minutes in most cases.

Tools needed:

- A new belt, of course
- Philips screwdriver
- Lithium grease

Steps:

0- Unplug the deck.

1- Remove the top-back panel. Just unscrew the philips screws where noted:

2- Be aware to remove the metal silver piece in the top-front of the deck before removing the entire back panel.

3- Remove the entire back panel.

4- Remove the capstan wheel piece retainer showed in the previous pic. It only has two philips screws, but be aware, both have washers, so don't miss them!

5- Now you can put the belt "easily". First of all you need to know that the capstan motor pulley has two ways: one for 50 Hz and one for 60 Hz. The 50 Hz is the inner and the 60 Hz is the outer (from the motor). So take the belt with your hand and with some hability, try to put it in the motor pulley from the back. This is the hardest point, so don't worry if you can't do it in the first try.

Doesn't matter if you put the belt in the incorrect motor pulley way in this step. The goal is to put it in the motor pulley.

6- Gently pull the belt to the capstan fly wheel zone and put it around the wheel. The belt must be placed in the inner part of it.

7- Ok, with the belt just replaced you need to be sure about which of the two motor pulley ways must it be placed. From your point of view, the closest to the motor would be for 50 Hz and the other for 60 Hz. To change it just use your fingers of a hand while the other hand rotates the capstan fly wheel.

8- Now the belt is in the correct place, so you must place the capstan wheel piece retainer back to its place. Remember, two screws and each with a washer, but previous to do it would be a good idea to place a bit of lithium grease in the contact zona of the fly wheel with this retainer.

9- The final step is the place the back panel to its original place taking in mind to place the metal silver piece in the top-front before, and over it, the panel and screw!

10- Test the job

TV: House M.D.

2009-12-25T21:24:00.004+01:00

Release date: November 2009

Episode 6x07: Teamwork

Pioneer RT-707

REP: Calibrating Pioneer RT-909 torgue

2009-07-20T01:58:00.004+02:00

I calibrated the tension and backtension of a Pioneer RT-909 some months ago but I didn't remember that I had uploaded two videos about it.

The first shows the problem, only present in RWD mode:

This can be produced by you if you just play with the internal pots without knowing exactly what are you doing and without having the correct tools to calibrate the tension:

- The service manual where is described the procedure to follow and the order in which is needed to do it.

- A spring gauge, or even better, a tentelometer.

Notice that even when the tension is not correct in one transport function and rest seems to work OK, all the entire calibration is needed because the values of the rest impact in the other tensions.

This is the result after some time calibrating the pots until getting the correct readings in the tentelometer:

AN: More photographies

2009-07-17T11:17:00.005+02:00

They were shot two days ago.

AN: Photographies

2009-07-04T20:01:00.006+02:00

I know that in the last weeks I didn't update the blog, but I've been busy with lot of work during week and most of the remaining time has been spent in my hobbies. Also here is very very hot and sunny, during the day it's 30 ºC (measured in shadow) and my home is most of the time shot by the sun.

I finally bought some tools to help me to repair and calibrate reel to reel decks, including scopemeter, millivoltmeter, tentelometer and digital weight scale. Soon I want to write a complete article about all the DIN plugs of the Uher 4400 Report Monitor. I made most of of the adapters for my unit and I'll share all the info I've got, including about the Z124 charger.

But until that day, I'll put here some pics shot during these days.

My second Pioneer RT-707 with ReVox 7" metal blue reels

Uher 4400 Report Monitor

Recording trains into the Uher 4400 Report Monitor

Two Pioneer RT-909

VID: Uher 4400 Report Monitor

2009-04-12T17:23:00.002+02:00

Doing a test with a piece of Maxell UD tape recorded very hot played back at 19 cms/7.5 ips in the Uher 4400 Report Monitor plugged by the DIN output socket to my main stereo system. It sounds really good even with those levels.

REP: Pioneer RT-909 sticky pinch roller mechanism

2009-03-23T23:32:00.009+01:00

After thirty years is possible than the pinch roller mechanism of the Pioneer RT-909 gets sticky. It happened too to other machines that I own because the grease used in the mechanic pieces becomes gummy.

To solve this problem is needed to do some work inside the machine, isn't too complicated, but are needed some tools to open class E circlips (retaining rings / E-clips).

First of all I removed eight philips screws, four per side, to remove the black cover. The top front panel has three philips screws in the top of it. Once they are removed, the top front panel can be removed pulling it from the top against you.

To remove the lower front panel is better to place the deck horizontally. Take care with the back panel because there are the input and output cinch connectors and the voltage selector (not present in all units, only in global models).

With the deck horizontally I removed three philips screws in the bottom and another three in the top of the panel. Next step is to remove the buttons covers from output volume, mic input, line input and pinch control. Is better to remove also the pinch rollers taking care not to lose all washers and screws. Before remove the bottom panel, look carefully how is mounted in the bottom part.

Both front panels and the head block removed .

With both front panels removed I went on with the head cover. Is needed an allen screwdriver to remove the two biggest screws in the head cover (they are black). I think that now all the head block can be moved just pulling it carefully, however I prefered to remove also the screws that fix the bottom thin piece that is linked to the head block.

The pieces that are directly responsible of the problem are the two arms where are mounted the pinch rollers. Both arms come together in an unique branch that is attached by a thin deck to the pinch roller solenoid. Each of those arms is mounted over a cylindrical axis and the grease between the axis and the pinch roller arm is solidified.

The two pinch roller arms that must be removed to clean them.

To remove these pinch roller arms is needed to remove the spring of the join, the circlip down it and each circlip of each pinch roller arm. This is the hardest part of the repair job, so be careful.

After removing the main circlips .

After removing the spring from the top part where is glued.

Once both pinch roller arms are free, now they can be removed.

Removing the pinch roller arms.

The pinch roller arms watched from the top while removing them.

Aspect of the chasis once both pinch roller arms have been removed.

I cleaned both the inner part of them and the axis of the chasis where they were placed. All there is full of grease in bad state, so after removed it I put new grease in those zones using a cotton swab.

The pinch roller arms in the bench and some of the tools used in the process.

New grease that will be used to lubricate the moving parts.

Applying new grease to the inner part of the pinch roller arms.

New grease put in the axis of the pinch roller arms.

Now is time to come back from the previous steps to mount all again. After put both pinch roller arms and place the spring in its original place, I glued it again so that it gets secure there.

Soaking a cotton swab in glue.

Before putting back the main circlips and after glue the spring.

After mounting the pinch roller arms, I tested the result.

Being useful that was everything disassembled, I cleaned the panels and the buttons covers using an aluminium cleaner.

Cleaning the front panels.

To put the lower panel in its original place isn't as easy as you can think in a first watch, so take it easy and don't force anything, it must be put in its right place and no force is needed.

Mounting the panels.

Here is a video showing the final result:

MOV: Kiss The Girls

2009-03-14T09:03:00.002+01:00

Release date: January 1998

Dokorder 1120

Internet Movie Database Link

MOV: Blow Out

2009-03-14T08:48:00.003+01:00

Release date: July 1981

Nagra III

Ampex 350

Pioneer RT-2022

Ampex 350

Nagra III

Ampex 350, Pioneer RT-2022, Scully 280B

Ampex 350, Nagra III

Ampex 350, Pioneer RT-2022, Scully 280B

Ampex 350 (2 units), Nagra III, Pioneer RT-2022, Scully 280B

Teac 2340 (2 units), Teac 2300SR

Teac 2340 (2 units), Teac 2300SR, Nagra III, ???

Nagra SN

Internet Movie Database Link

VID: Teac X-2000R with 7" metal reels

2009-03-13T21:51:00.002+01:00

Here is the Teac X-2000R with two TDK AR-7M 7" metal reels spinning at 7.5 ips / 19 cms.

AN: Pioneer RT-909 black edition

2009-03-01T18:01:00.004+01:00

As most people know, the Pioneer RT-909 was the top of the line of the brand, and unlike other brands, it was only released in silver finish.
That's was the supposed truth for a long time, but after watching in some movies the Pioneer RT-707 in black finish I questioned myself if also existed a RT-909 in black.

A few time ago I discovered an auction for a Pioneer RT-909 in black. That wasn't the first time that I found a black one, but was the first time that the finish looked not DIY, looked as an authentic black RT-909. After reading the text of the auction I realized that this was a personal project made with lot of care, effort and expensive, but with professional results.

I contacted the seller (Mr. V. in advance) to ask about the story of this unit and he told me than he always wanted a RT-909 in black and he saw one 20 years ago in a goverment institution. It was brand new and boxed. The box said "Pioneer RT-909", not "Pioneer RT-909B" or "Pioneer RT-909K" as usually do the brands to identity the black units, but in the corner there were a small text: "black".

The black RT-909 wasn't released to the consumer market, so only goverments and some professional sectors were able to order it. Mr. V. wanted a black RT-909 and after long time he finally decided to make a professional looking project with a friend to convert the silver face into a black face.

Their priority was to get a very high finish quality, not an amateur job. They tried the modification to black in different factories specialized in anodization processes and front printings, but the result was just good. Good were not enough for them, they wanted the perfection. A huge problem was the lettering on the front face because they found a very similar font but not the exact match. Another problem was the material used in the original front face that they used for the modification. Sometimes in some fronts hadn't enough aluminium consistency and sometimes appeared "clouds". It's more difficult to get a perfect black anodized surface than a silver one.

After a long research and a huge waste of material, they ended in the factory where also the big brands like Burmester and T+A do their cases and fronts. That factory knew how to do the things right and get the exact original font match and text placement on the front and obtain a very high resisting printing in silver color, which looks better than white color print.

Lot of problems appeared along the project, specially with the head cover, because it wasn't able to be converted to black, so it was needed to make the piece doing a 3D scanning and reproducing it in very high detail to get the black anodized head cover.

But this black Pioneer RT-909 has something that the original one never had: the wireless remote controller. Yes, all transport functions can be operated from a wireless remote controller and the result is amazing because it was done with the idea of an add-on, so there isn't neccesary to make new holes or lot of soldering. The infrared receiver sensor is placed just together with the fluorescent meter, so it uses the same window and a perfect reception is obtained.

All the electronics needed were profesionally made, even the remote controller

As a result of a long project and after lots of hours of design and job, here is the result: a black pearl, a black Pioneer RT-909 with high quality finish and outstanding perfection. Do you want more?, because there's more. The heads were relapped and aligned by JRF, so they are in perfect shape and perfectly aligned.

Here are some pics of the final result of this project.

This project wasn't made just for one unit but just a few of them. They are very limited and maybe when you read this lines, there is no more left, but if you feel lucky, are a serious collector and want to try to get a black Pioneer RT-909 or to get the wireless remote control kit to add to your Pioneer RT-909, send me an email.

DOC: Technics adds

2009-02-14T22:51:00.005+01:00

Japanese adds of Technics RS serie: RS-777, RS-1500, RS-1506, RS-1700 and RS-1800 indicating the original price in yens.

TV: The Wire

2009-02-14T21:40:00.002+01:00

Release date: June 2002

Episode 1x02: The detail

Nagra SN

Internet Movie Database Link

AN: My old stereo system

2009-02-12T17:07:00.005+01:00

Back 'a few years ago' owned a 70's stereo system composed by vynil, CD, cassette and open reel. Don't remember the model of the Pioneer receiver, but the rest were:

Open reel deck: Teac A-2050
Cassette deck : Pioneer CT-F600
LP turntable: Grundig PS 2000
CD player: Technics SLPG-200A

I've just found and old pic of that era. Here is:

TV: Turno de Oficio

2009-02-10T14:00:00.002+01:00

Release date: April 1996

Episode 2x21: Todo sobre Laura

Philips N4414

Internet Movie Database Link

VID: Akai GX-77

2009-02-07T11:18:00.003+01:00

A close view to the singular Akai GX-77, a six heads machine with quick reverse function thanks to a dual capstan mechanism that spins in opposite directions and where only one pinch roller is used in each way, not both.

This was also the unique reel to reel deck that uses a very curious mechanism to place the tape in the correct heads path.

DOC: Teac catalogue

2009-01-31T10:28:00.003+01:00

A friend of mine found at home this TEAC catalogue.

It has TEAC reel to reel decks X-2000, X-2000R, X-2000M, X-300, X300R, X-700R and different accesories for them.

DOC/TIP: R2R Calc

2009-01-20T19:39:00.004+01:00

This is a little utility program for Windows that I programmed back in 2005. It's very simple but useful when you want to calc length or time for a tape.

You select the tape speed, the tape direction, the length unit and what you want to calc, minutes or tape length. If you want to calc tape length, the input text box of "minutes" is activated and there you can type the number of minutes so that the program can calculate the length needed when button "calc" is clicked. The same procedure, but selecting "minutes" and typing in the "length" input text box is used to calculate the time.

Here is a simple snapshot of the program:

You can download it from here. This program can be used by anyone for free.

MOV: JCVD

2008-12-29T14:00:00.003+01:00

Release date: Nomvember 2008

ReVox B77 MK-II

Possibly the left reel is a ReVox novodur plastic reel and the right one is a Philips or Grundig metal take-up reel.

VID/DES: Maxell 10.5" black metal reel

2008-12-12T17:57:00.005+01:00

This is one of the rarest reel that I have and of course wasn't commercially released, it was made by someone. The reel was probably in origin a Maxell silver reel, one of the first designs, almost the same than the common 3 holes from Agfa and ReVox.

The reel presented here is painted in black but with a layer of bright varnish, so the final result is really cool. All the lettering is in gold colour, with the characteristical big "m" of maxell and the brand written too. Lettering is in both sides and placed three times in a 120º configuration.

Pictures worth more than one thousand words:

And here is a video with this reel used as take-up reel in a Teac X-2000R:

REP: Changing Pioneer RT-707 direction lamps for leds

2008-11-08T17:49:00.010+01:00

Today I was working a Pioneer RT-707, putting some grease in the capstan motor and adjusting the fly wheel when both direction lamps burned. It's rare that both lamps burn at the same time, but I think that this happened because they were in their last hours, and after manipulated the deck, putting it up, down... etc, finally the filaments broke.

Fortunatelly I had some leds left at home, so I began to replace both direction lamps with leds. The voltage to the lamps is about 26VDC, so a balast resistor is needed in serial with each led. I used 5mm width leds, that enter perfectly in the hold.

In a first time I tried a 1.3Kohms. 1/4 watt. After testing, it got too hot, so I tried a 2.2 Kohms. and with more wattage. Tested that first one led with it and all was working well.

Here is the procedure I followed to change the direction lamps with leds.

1- Remove the deck cover. Four philips screws in each side and three more in the upper.

2- Remove the front panel. Two philips screws and three more in the bottom. Remove the pots knobs of MIC and LINE controls. Also the pinch control knob. To remove the front panel now, both pinch roller must be pushed up manually and with care, pull the panel.

3- Both direction lamps are in a small black socket. To remove it, unscrew the two philips screws.

Each lamp is inside his hole and can be removered simply pulling the lamp from their wires.

4- Solder the balast resistor to the cathode of the led (in the image is shown the first resistor that I tried). Use a simple tester to know which wire will go to the cathode and which one to the anode.

5- Put the led inside the original socket

6- Solder the wires to the led and the balast resistor

Here is another pic with the final balast resistor selected, 2.2 KOhms.

7- Solder the other direction led.

8- Test both direction leds.

9- Put some electric tape in the chasis where will be hold the leds socket, to make a dielectric layer so that nothing wrong happens if some wire of the new leds touch the bottom part of the socket once it has been put in its original place

10- Put the leds socket in its place with the two philips screws and test the work

11- Put the front face and the cover in their original places.

MOV: Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull

2008-11-08T01:10:00.005+01:00

Release date: May 2008

The action of the fourth Indiana Jones movie occurs in 1957, and in that year reel to reel decks were available and this film shows two different good examples.

Ampex 350

The reels seem to be Scotch or EMI type, but the NAB hub adapters maybe are ReVox.

Magnecorder PT6-A transport + Magnecorder PT6-J portable record/playback electronics with amp and speaker

The machines are correctly dated. The Magnecorder is from 1947 and the Ampex is from 1953.

Internet Movie Database Link

AN: Some photographies

2008-10-26T15:51:00.006+01:00

From time to time I enjoy taking shots of different things with my camera, and of course, this includes all related things with the reel to reel world.

Here are some that I took a few days ago:

Blue Open Reel

Fluorescent Blue Meters

The Ghost of the Pioneer RT-909

Dancing Open Reel Tape

VID: Grundig TS-1000

2008-10-26T13:55:00.002+01:00

Here is another video of the Grundig TS-1000 available in high quality playing back "Galactica OST" at 19 cms / 7.5 ips. The tape is a AGFA 468 and the reels are metal Scotch painted in blue. They look really cool.

This unit is modified, you can read more about it clicking here.

VID: Tandberg TD 20A

2008-10-26T13:51:00.003+01:00

Here is another video available in high quality (originally shot in 720P) showing the Tandberg TD 20A playing back "Badly Drawn Boy" at 19 cms / 7.5 ips, this time with ReVox black metal NAB hub adapters.

DES: Akai R-7M 7" metal reel

2008-10-18T11:13:00.003+02:00

Akai is probably the brand who made more different designs for their 7" metal reels. This one described here is the design with blue AKAI lettering.

Akai R-7M reel.

It has three holes in-line with no slot. The reel is silver with the AKAI lettering in blue. The design is identical on both sides, no differences. It has three screws and three "blind slots".

The reel is very light with made by thin aluminium, but is consistent. The distance between the both flanges is a few just, however is rare that the tape touches any of them.

The original box.

A pair of AKAI reels in their boxes.

The reels in an Akai deck, the GX-77

DES / VID: Tandberg TD 20A

2008-10-04T21:04:00.009+02:00

This was the top of the line reel to reel deck made by Tandberg and can handle up to 10.5" reels . It was sold in two versions: 4 tracks and 2 tracks.

The 4 tracks version came with the standard domestic speeds: 9.5 cms / 3.75 ips and 19 cms / 7.5 ips, while the 2 tracks version came with the professional speeds: 19 cms / 7.5 ips and 38 cms / 15 ips.

Instead of the typical 3 motor design, this deck has 4 motors: one per each reel, one for the capstan and the last one for pinch roller engage. I think this deck was the only one made with this feature instead of the most typical design by solenoid.

But there are more odd things. For example, this deck doesn't have a PAUSE button. It's rare, but I think the explanation is the system used to engage the pinch roller.

Other odd is that isn't neccesary to press the record and play buttons at the same time, it's only needed to press the record button and the deck goes into the recording mode if at least one of the record switches are selected. When a record switch is on, the "stand by" led lights.

All transport functions are led lighted, even the "stop" and all leds are red.

There's one feature that it's curious: the "free" mode. When "stop" and "wind" buttons are pressed at the same time, the led with the "free" function lights. In that mode the brakes are released and both reels can be manipulated by hand without any friction.

If the "edit / cue" switch is on, the sound can be heared while the reels are manipulated by hand. To end the free mode, just press "stop" and the deck will tight the tape.

Bias adjustment can be done individually per each channel with two pots that are in the front face of the deck and there are individual pots for the input signals per channel (line 1 and line 2 / mic), mic attenuator and output signal.

And here is the Tandberg TD 20A in action:

But, how is the 4th motor? how does it work exactly?. Look:

VID: Teac X-2000R inside

2008-09-29T22:07:00.003+02:00

As I explained in the previous entry, I had to fix a tension arm problem with my Teac X-2000R, so after fixing it, I shot this video showing some inside views of the deck and how the capstan belt changes its position depending on which play direction is selected.

This happens because the capstan wheels have two parts, one with a diameter bigger than the other, so that when the forward direction is selected, the belt accomodates the position where the right capstan wheel spins a little faster than the left one, and the opposite, when the reverse direction is selected, the left capstan wheel spins a little faster than the right capstan wheel.

VID / REP: Teac X-2000R tension arms

2008-09-29T21:51:00.005+02:00

Although my Teac X-2000R was almost mint, from the first moment the tension arms fluctuated when it was in play mode, both forward or reverse.

I swapped both tension arms guide rollers but the problem persisted.

I opened the deck trying to figure out which was the problem. The auto-tension system is basically the same as the one found in the Grundig TS-1000. Each tension arm has a small plate attached in the inside and passes near a photodetector so that when the tension arm is in the lower position, the motor power goes up, and when the arm goes to a higher position, the tension applied to the motor goes down.

Here is a video shot from the inside of the machine:

I tried to adjust the position of the photodetectors and even the trimmers that adjust the tension, but no luck, the problem still happening.

The tension arm axis is a screw that has springs. I realized that when I manipulated the screw, the height position of the tension arm varied. I adjusted this screw with the machine in play mode with a tape threaded so that I can watch the results in real time. I minimal adjustement was needed to watch the tension arm stops its oscillation.

In appearance, this was a rare failure, because most times whis happen is caused by old motors and/or poor lubricated rollers and arms, but in this case, both rollers are in perfect shape and the motors too.

Here is another video with the final result after the adjustement:

VID: Pioneer RT-1020H spinning at 15 ips

2008-09-27T20:53:00.004+02:00

This deck eat tape very fast when runs at 38 cms / 15 ips, but spins really fast when it's used 7" reels.

In the video can be also watched all the buttons and lettering in detail.

VID / TIP: Trashing a sticky tape

2008-09-21T20:06:00.003+02:00

If you have bought a tape and resulted to be sticky, or a tape that you already had and is completly useless for you once you have made a copy of the content, maybe you have asked yourself how to remove the tape but keeping the reel for future use as take up reel or to be fulled with other tape.

The first step is to be sure that your tape has the sticky shed syndrome. I usually do this method:

Once is threaded by the tape path, press FF and if you note than after one minute, it goes slow, press RWD. If the tape travels very slow or even can't travel, then is a sticky tape:

Well, now how to do with the tape to trash it fast and keep the reel without having as a result a never ending spaguetti tape incident:

I use a NAB hub without flanges, just the hub, but to get at least the correct aligment position as if were with a flange, I use a CD as a separator.

Easy and fast.

VID: Pioneer RT-909 inside

2008-09-21T18:48:00.005+02:00

Today I've had to open the deck to make some mechanical adjustements, so I shot this video where is shown both external and internal parts of it in detail together with all transport functions from both points of view.

VID: Pioneer RT-707 playing Iron Maiden

2008-09-20T21:13:00.004+02:00

Just another video showing a Pioneer RT-707spinning. Since I'm doing the videos with a photo camera and sometimes with a webcam, the sound is really bad, but at this time I'm unable to copy from the video camera to the computer, so until better news, both video and audio quality won't be as good as in the first videos, but I think the top quality is not the goal when the videos will be watched in YouTube.

This time with two ReVox 7" metal reels, one in blue and one in gold, spinning at 19cm/s - 7.5 ips that contains close shots so that every detail can be watched.

I wish you like and enjoy it.

DES: The story of Star Wars and OST

2008-09-19T10:28:00.003+02:00

This a good collector's item that I found sometime ago in mint state, never used.

I think that this boxset was only released in open reel tape at the end of 70's, just after the theatrical release of the movie. Separatelly was released in vinyl too.

There are two tapes recorded at 7.5 ips - 19 cm/s in 4 track stereo configuration, plus a complete list of all components of the orchesta and an album with high quality pictures of the movie.

The sound quality is good in both tapes. The first tape contains the original soundtrack composed by John Williams and the second tape contains the story of Star Wars, that is basically the sound of the original movie, but with a narrator that conduces the story. The total running time of the story is about 50 minutes.

Here are some pics of this collector's item:

VID: Using a bulk eraser

2008-09-14T21:12:00.002+02:00

Sometime ago I placed an entry doing a description of the Teac E-2 bulk eraser. Now I've shot a video showing how to use it. Normally I use the bulk eraser when I want to recycle an already recorded tape to ensure that the new recording will no have any rest of the old recording due to alingment issues or any other issue.

Another reason to use the bulk eraser is to try to restore the tape to the a like virgin state, erasing also any hiss that was in the tape.

DES: Ampex 7" metal reel

2008-09-10T23:08:00.005+02:00

Never known that Ampex did metal reels of 7" diameter. I was lucky to find some of them in the same lot.

It has three holes in-line, three screws and is easy to thread thanks to a large loading line.

Spinning at 9.5 cm/s

Front view

There is a "blind slot" in the inner circle of the reel, like another spindle hole, but without the star shape, just the circle. Maybe it was used to hang the reel...

The lettering is identical in both sides, "AMPEX" in the first line (bold and capital letters) and "audio supply" in a second line in a smaller font size. Each side is labeled as "1" or "2".

DES: Teac 7" metal black reel

2008-08-30T21:41:00.004+02:00

That reel is unusual. Black metal reel with the TEAC logo painted in gold. I think that only existed the 7" version and wasn't made in 10.5" with the same design.

It has three holes off-set and uses four philips anodized screws and has a slot to hold the tape.

A pair of reels like this makes a good visual result with a TEAC black faced deck, as the X1000 or X2000.

DES: Pioneer PR-85 7" metal reel

2008-08-28T02:41:00.003+02:00

Now is the turn of one of the most wanted 7" metal reels, the original one that came with the Pioneer models RT-701 and RT-707. However, it was also sold separately.

It has six holes "in line" with three screws and it's very light because the holes are really big and between each one, there is a radius that goes to the center hub. There is also present a single slot to hold the tape.

The aluminium is very delicated because of the size of the holes. The central hub has three marks to hold the spindle in the right position while pressing the reel.

Here are some shots of this beauty:

Stopped

Closer look

Running at 9.5 cm/s

With the reel full of tape

DES: TDK AR-7M 7" metal reel

2008-08-26T15:48:00.006+02:00

TDK 10.5" metal reels are found usually, both two and three holes design, but the 2 holes version in 7" size is not so usual, so, here is.

I bought this one one year ago more or less, and was unopened, perfect condition in all ways. This is the only one that I've found for sale in some years looking for it.

Here are some shots in a Pioneer RT-707 together with a Revox 7" metal blue reel.

Stopped

Closer look

"TDK 178". The size in milimetres.

Running at 9.5 cm/s

MOV: Point Break

2008-08-25T18:40:00.004+02:00

Release date: August 1991

Teac A-3340S

Internet Movie Database Link

MOV: Almost Famous

2008-08-23T16:59:00.004+02:00

Release date: February 2001

Teac A-1500-W

Internet Movie Database Link

VID: Pioneer RT-909 playing "Doctor Who"

2008-08-21T18:38:00.005+02:00

In this video, the Pioneer RT-909 is playing back one of the most famous TV themes of all times: "Doctor Who", originally composed by Delia Derbyshire.

The tape was recorded at 7.5 ips - 19 cm/s loaded into one the smallest reel I have and uses the original NAB hub adaptors and the original metal take-up reel.

TV: MacGyver

2008-08-15T20:14:00.007+02:00

Release date: January 1987

Episode 2x13: Soft Touch

Revox A77 MKIV. Really, it's a MKIV but with the silver face of the MKI version. A Frankenstein A77?

UPDATE

I've just realized that the supply reel in the closer frame isn't the same that the shown in the rest of the frames. In the general shots is a Scotch and in the closer shot is an Ampex.

Internet Movie Database Link

VID: Pioneer RT-707 playing Jazz

2008-08-14T12:23:00.005+02:00

This was probably the best of the 7" reel to reel decks ever made, built like a tank.

It has three motors (all direct drive), four heads (erase, record and forward and reverse playback), two speeds (7.5 and 3.75 ips / 19 and 9.5 cms) and is autoreverse in playback mode.

The unique belt the machine has inside is the used for the counter. All transport functions are activated by solenoids and has big and real reading VU meters.

Has a switch for bias setting (STD and LH) and another for EQ setting (STD and LH), independent record channel modes, pitch control, autorepeat function and line and mic input knobs with mix signal function. In the backside, it has independent output volume knobs.

TV: Dexter

2008-08-13T13:00:00.002+02:00

Release date: October 2007

Episode 2x05: The Dark Defender

Concord 550

Release date: November 2007

Episode 2x06: Dex, Lies & Videotape

Concord 550

Tascam 32

Internet Movie Database Link

VID: Teac X-2000R transport functions

2008-08-12T13:57:00.005+02:00

The Teac X-2000R was the top of the line of the reel to reel tape recorders made by Teac and dedicated to the HIFI enthusiasts.

It has a computerized transport control which allows to do some functions like make a cue point, go to the cue point, go to zero and the repeat function.

A cue point is a virtual mark in the tape. The repeat function works between the zero and the cue point. The deck goes from the zero point to the cue point and after that, it rewinds and starts from the zero point again and again and again until repeat button is depressed.

In the next video is shown how the repeat function works, but also the pitch control, the speed change and the direction change.

DES: ReVox 7" metal golden reel

2008-08-11T19:39:00.004+02:00

Previously I did the entries for the blue and red ReVox 7" metal reels. Now is the turn of the golden "champaign" reel. Identical to the other ones, except the color.

AN: I want to know your opinion

2008-08-08T08:30:00.003+02:00

It's anybody out there?

After more than nine months online, I'd like to know the opinions of the readers about this blog and which posts do you prefer (videos, recognize reel to reel players in movies and series, descriptions... etc).

Do you think there are some missing type of posts that could be interesting to include in the blog?

This time is your time, the time where you can write and tell me your opinion. To do this, just click over the word "comments" that is located at the end of each post and type your text where it says "Leave your comment". You can signature your comment selecting only one of the types of identity (google/blogger, OpenID, Name/URL, Anonymous).

Thanks in advance.

TV: Depeche Mode

2008-08-06T14:29:00.001+02:00

Release date: late 1981

Teac A-3440

VID: Pioneer RT-1020H

2008-08-03T23:37:00.002+02:00

Recording from CD in first place and playing back later. The sound is not good and the image is mid quality because all was captured using a webcam.

Cool blue reels spinning!

DES: Bulk tape eraser

2008-07-19T16:57:00.007+02:00

What is a bulk tape eraser?. It's a device that can produce an AC magnetic field which will erase an entire magnetic media.

There are different types of bulk erasers depending of the media that will be erased and with different power of erase. This power is measured in oesterds. A higher oesterds value means a higher power to erase.

Here is bulk tape eraser used to make "like a virgin" any 1/4" open reel tape:

Teac E-2 bulk tape eraser

It has just one switch to power on or off the device and a red lamp that shows when it's working.

In the top of the device there's a single spindle where the reel must be placed:

If you want to erase a reel with NAB hub, it's so easy as to use a NAB hub adapter with it like is shown in the next picture:

The correct procedure to erase the tape is:

1- Be sure you are very far away from anything that is magnetic and can be damaged and/or affected by the intense magnetic field generated by the devide, like TVs, videos, external hard drives, computers, watches... etc.

2-Put the tape one feet (more or less) away from the bulk eraser and turn it on.

3- Slowly, close the reel to the bulk eraser and put it in the spindle.

4- Slowly, with your hand, make a complete revolution at least to the reel, so that the powerful part of the eraser affects any part of the reel.

5- Slowly, move away the reel from the bulk eraser until it will be one feet away from it.

6- Turn off the bulk eraser.

The result will be a tape completly erased in just a few seconds.

But, when it's really useful to use a bulk eraser?. For example, when we want to record over a tape that is recorded in half track, using a quater track configuration.

Why?. Because without using a bulk tape eraser, the quater track deck can't erase completly both tracks and the old program recorded in the tape will be audible very low when the new program is between tracks.

MOV: Saw IV

2008-07-19T15:35:00.004+02:00

Release date: October 2007

Teac A-3300S

Scotch reel in the left and right side. NAB hub adapters are the originals made by Teac that came with the deck, model TZ-612

Internet Movie Database Link

DES: Scotch 10.5" six holes metal blue reel

2008-07-15T21:04:00.006+02:00

After some time looking for a pair of these beauties, recently I've adquired them separately.

The design (six holes "in line") was common used by different brands like Scotch and Basf and was also used in the well known Teac RE-1003 and Pioneer PR-101 empty reels.

Here are three shots taken in the Pioneer RT-1020H with ReVox metal silver NAB hub adapters.

VID: Pioneer RT-909

2008-06-01T19:42:00.003+02:00

In this video, the Pioneer RT-909 is playing back a tape recorded at 7.5 ips - 19 cm/s loaded into big reels and uses ReVox metal blue NAB hub adaptors.

VID: Akai GX-77

2008-06-01T19:09:00.007+02:00

The GX-77 was the last model made by Akai. It's the younger brother of the GX-747.

It's a three motors machine, two speeds (3.75 ips - 9.5 cm/s and 7.5 ips - 19 cm/s), full reverse with 6 heads and ca handle up to 7" reels.

Can use "EE" tape and has external bias fine adjustement. The difference with any other reel to reel deck is the exclusive system to load the tape, which uses a roller to make the tape go against the heads.

VID: Grundig TK-146

2008-06-01T04:00:00.003+02:00

I have recently fixed this beauty. It looks like new has more than 40 years. This one was the first Grundig machine made with transistors instead of tubes. It's a 4 tracks 1 channel mono, single speed (9.5 cm/s - 3.75 ips) and single motor. Has built-in amp and speaker. It can handle up to 5" 3/4 - 15 cms. reels. Although is a mono machine, can reproduce two channels at a time.

I recorded a stereo tape in a Pioneer RT-909 and here is the result:

VID: Teac X-2000R

2008-05-31T22:39:00.001+02:00

The tape is a BASF LP35 recorded at 7.5 ips (19 cm/s). The take up is a ReVox 7" metal blue reel.

VID: Blade Runner OST

2008-05-31T21:17:00.002+02:00

Recently I bought the 5 disc collector edition of the movie Blade Runner.

The Ultimate Collector's Edition is presented in a unique 5-disc digi-package with handle which is a stylish version of Rick Deckard's own briefcase. Included is a lenticular motion film clip from the original feature, miniature origami unicorn figurine, miniature replica spinner car, and collector's photographs, as well as a signed personal letter from Sir Ridley Scott.

But what about the original soundtrack of the movie?. I couldn't resist to make a home made open reel tape with it.

Here is the video:

TV: Stargate SG-1

2008-05-30T21:31:00.008+02:00

Release date: July 2001

Episode 5x03: Ascension

Pioneer RT-1011L

Internet Movie Database Link

REP: Grundig TK-146 belts

2008-05-24T14:36:00.005+02:00

The Grundig TK-146 was the first solid state machine that this german manufacturer made.

It's a 4 track 1 channel mono machine with one motor. Can handle up to 5 3/4" (15 cms.) reels and has only one speed: 3.75 ips (9.5 cm/s).

It has a built-in amp with an oval speaker. The machine is suitcase type and is one of the most elegants I've ever seen.

The unit uses three belts. One from the motor to the capstan flying wheel, other from the capstan to the right reel table and the last one from the right reel table to the counter.

I'll show how to change the belts pass by pass.

1- Remove the upper cover. In the upper face there're five screws and two more under the handle. Also all knobs must be removed.

2- Remove the bottom cover that is holded by four screws.

3- In the bottom part there's a small deck that holds the flying wheel. It has two screws that must me removed.

4- Now there's space to make the belts go round the flying wheel.

5- Put the machine sit in her left side and put the bigger belt in the motor and pass the belt down the flying wheel. To make space enough to pass the belt, the flying wheel axis must be pressed from the back side to the front side.

6- From the back side, the belt is now near. Using any tool the goal is to pass the belt over that axis. In the image the belt must be put thru the bottom line of the inner wheel.

7- Once the belt has been passed, moving by hand the flying wheel in the front side, using the fingers to maintain the belt in the outer side of the flying wheel, carefully it will go to its correct place.

8- The second belt must be put first in the bottom and inner part of the right reel table.

9-Pass the right belt down the flying wheel. It must go under the bigger belt. The correct place in the flying wheel is the inner part, so it's very easy to put. Imagine that the second belt looks now like the image in the point 6. The belt will go around the inner wheel and can be put there by hand or using any appropiated tool.

10- To put the third and final belt, the one that goes from the right reel table to the counter, the procedure is direct and must be down from the back going between the two rounded guides. This is the easiest one to replace.

11- The deck removed in the 3 point must be now placed back to its original place.

12- Mount the back side using the four screws

13- Mount the front side using the five screws and careful with the meter.

14- Put the knobs and handle back to its original place and... job done!.

TV: MacGyver

2008-05-11T18:47:00.011+02:00

Release date: Febrary 1989

Episode 4x10: Fraternity of Thieves

Pioneer RT-1020L. Both reels are Sony and the NAB hub adapters appear to be the original ones, Pioneer PP-220A.

Internet Movie Database Link

MOV: El Orfanato

2008-05-08T15:23:00.010+02:00

Release date: October 2007

Iberia (unknown model)

Tascam 34B

Revox B77 MKII

Internet Movie Database Link

DES: ReVox 7" metal red reel

2008-05-06T21:30:00.004+02:00

Identical than the blue model except for the color (click here to read the entry dedicated to the blue reel), this one looks also very nice in most decks, however looks incredible in the Pioneer RT-707.

DES: Hubs

2008-04-27T20:59:00.003+02:00

What is a hub?.

A hub is the axis where a reel is put in a reel to reel tape recorder. There are two main standards about it, the european and the american.

The european hub is more or less than the same used in the 8mm projectors.

There are reels from 2.5" to 10.5" that need an european hub. Maybe ir's rare the use of this thin hub in the bigger reels, but were the common in plastic reels like Philips or Revox.

The american hub is wider, about 76 mm of diameter.

Except some professionals decks, reel to reel machines came with european hub as a standard, so to use a reel with american hub, it's needed an adapter.

Most reels with american hub are 10.5", but there were some rare exceptions like some 7" reels.

European to american hub adapters are known as NAB hub adapters and there were different types, from the cheapest made of plastic that were put first in the reel, and in second place in the european hub, to the expensive ones that were put directly in the european hub and then, the reel over them.

The first method is less confortable because to remove a reel and put another one, it's needed to remove the adapter from the reel table and put it again in the new reel.

With expensive adapters, the adapter irself is placed in the reel table as it were the natural hub of the deck, so when is needed to put a tape, the time used in the procedure is the same as the original hub of the machine were american.

American and european hubs weren't used in their respective productions. The common is always the european hub except in most cases, in the 10.5" reels.

Here are some examples of cheap NAB hub adapters:

Today some of these adapters are collectables pieces so their price is high, as occurs with the Pioneer PP-220 adapters.

Expensive adapters were maybe the common ones. Brands like AKAI, Teac, Otari, Revox, Basf... made good adapters that were put directly in the reel tables.

The best (and expensive too) hub adapters maybe are the metal Revox adapters. They were produced in different metal colors, the same that the metal reels produced by the brand: light aluminium, red, blue, black and gold.

VID: Spinning from 2.38 cm/s (0.9375 ips) to 76 cm/s (30 ips)

2008-04-23T22:22:00.003+02:00

Each time one of those beauties appears in a movie, I try to figure out at which speed is running.
I've located some short videos where are shown different speeds with the same size of reels.

2.38 cm/s - 0.9375 ips

4.75 cm/s - 1.875 ips

9.5 cm/s - 3.75 ips

19 cm/s - 7.5 ips

38 cm/s - 15 ips

76 cm/s - 30 ips

PER: Pedro Sánchez

2008-04-09T09:38:00.002+02:00

Pedro is a reeler who lives near Barcelona and has, possibly, the most important collection of reel to reels in Spain and one of the neastest I've ever seen.

He specially likes ReVox, but also hi-end machines in general.

Here are the pics he has just sent so that can be published.

Technics RS-1500

Technics RS-1506

Technics RS-1700

Technics RS-1500 US

Webcor

Revox PR-99 Mono

Revox PR99 MKIII

Revox PR99 MK III

Revox A700

Revox A77 MKIV

Revox A77 MKIII

Revox PR99 MKII

Sony TC-200

Sony TC-502-2

Tandberg 10XD

Tascam ATR-60

Tascam BR-20T

Tascam 32

Teac 32-2

Teac A-3440

Teac X-2000R BL

Teac 80-8

Philips N-4504

Pioneer RT-707

Pioneer RT-2022

Pioneer RT-707

Otari MX55

Nagra SNS

Nagra SNS

Crown 800

Viking 88

Fostex G16

Sony Elcaset

Studer A810

His Master Voice

Nagra IS

Akai GX-266

Akai GX-4000D

Akai GX-4000DB

Akai GX-636D

Akai GX-230D

Akai 1722L

Akai 1722W

Akai GX-202

Akai GX-4000D

Akai GX-630D

Akai GX-266

Akai GX-280D-SS

Akai M-10

Akai X-1800 SD

Different shots:

TV: The Sopranos

2008-04-08T21:03:00.005+02:00

Release date: March 2001

Episode 3x04: Employee of the Month

Nagra 4.2

Episode 3x05: Another Toothpick

Nagra 4.2

Internet Movie Database Link

MOV: Alvin and The Chipmunks

2008-04-07T08:48:00.011+02:00

Release date: December 2007

Teac A-3440

Scotch reel in the left side and Ampex reel in the right side.

NAB hub adapters are the originals made by Teac that came with the deck, model TZ-612

Internet Movie Database Link

REP: Akai GX-600DB

2008-04-06T16:25:00.006+02:00

This deck was bought in Germany and the seller didn't take care packing it and the result was a D.O.A. reel to reel machine which capstan motor didn't work.

Thanks to the people of the reeltoreel Yahoo! group list I was tracing the problem from the capstan motor itself back to the current flow direction.

After a visual inspection all pieces seemed to be in good shape, so the first thing done was to check a big capacitor and the capstan motor itself.

To do this, the wires needed to be unsoldered/cut from the rest of the circuit and then, measure the impedance between some wires that must be:

Between pink and red: ca. 130 Ohms
Between pink and brown: ca. 180 Ohms
Between green and grey: ca. 360 Ohms
Between green and yellow: 370 Ohms

The values measured were:

Pink - red = 126,9 (instead of 130)
Pink - brown = 174,8 (instead of 180)
Green - grey = 350 (instead of 360)
Green - yellow = 352 (instead of 370)

According to measured values, the capstan motor was in good shape. Next step was to go down to a small board with the number TD-2087. It contains only six blue spark killers.

After unsoldering the six spark killers and measured them, all seemed to be fine. So... what's happen?!.

Frank Oomen was helping me directly by email and pointed me to the next step: the speed switch selector. In a first time I thought that this couldn't be the problem because I had sprayed lot of contact cleaner in it, but as the problem could be anywhere, I unsoldered the speed switch and opened it.

Putting the wires together as if the switch were working well, the motor run, so the problem was finally located in the speed switch.

I did several fixes to it to try to repair it, but each time I closed it and soldered the six wires and tested the deck during some time, it finally always with a misswork. I decided to bypass this switch and set the deck in its high speed (7.5 ips / 19 cms) and go on with more tests.

The first thing I noticed was that the rec bulb was blown and the dolby/S.O.S one too. Measuring with a tester the current there was 24 V DC. The rec bulb could be replaced with a led and a resistor put in serie, but the dolby / S.O.S. bulb couldn't be replaced with a led because it originally is inside a socket with small lateral windows, so when the dolby button was pressed, its small lateral window was inline with the bulb's socket lateral window and the light passed inside it. The same ocurred with the S.O.S. button.

A led always lights to the front direction, not to the sides. As the space in the socket was narrow, I couldn't use two leds (one lighting in each direction, directly to the small windows).

The solution was to replace the original bulb with smaller bulbs. As the ones I had here were 6.3 V, I put four in serial so that the 24V current were OK with them.

Ater soldering the bulbs I tested the deck and after a few time, it didn't sound neither the meters readed anything.

I didn't understand what was happening here. Measuring the current here, instead of the original 24V DC, now there only were 1.2 V DC.

I unsoldered the four bulbs thinking that maybe some shortcut had happened, but all wires were OK and even then, the voltage was about 1.2V DC in that line, which was the same that powered the sound boards.

From the power suppy to that point, there was a socket that could be unplugged. With the socket unplugged, the voltage at this point were right, but as soon as I reconnected it again, it dropped down again.

In a first place I thought that the problem must be located in the audio board. The current flow was:

From the socket to the record board
From the record board to the playback board

All connections here between boards were done with wires soldered between them, so to try to find the problem I unsoldered all the wired from the record board to the playback board to test if the voltage then was OK or not.

To work better and with more space, I soldered a longer wires from the inside of the deck to the outside of it so that I could place the record board in a more confortable place to work.

Checking here, the voltage was nearly to zero. Well, I said to myself that the problem must be located then in this board, but visually nothing seemed to be in bad shape.

Anyway, I replaced all electrolitic caps with new ones and tested all transistors. All measured well. I looked for some broken track or some shortcut. Spent lot of hours here, even unsoldered most of the resistors and measured them. All seemed to be in good shape.

When I was decided to stop the work, I measured again in the incomming power supply with the boards unplugged, and the voltage was OK, but as soon as I plugged there anything to that power supply, the voltage were nearly zero, even if I plugged there the four bulbs and no more.

Well, never thought that the problem could be the incomming power. It always dropped to nearly zero when anything was connected to it. Checking the previous components, there were just a simple circuit to convert the AC power into a DC power.

After some hours studying the components, I found a zener diode blown, and a transistor in bad shape (2SC1013). The zener diode was a 24V and about 1W.

Looking for a possible replacement for the original transistor, I had a 2SD837, that had better and bigger values, so I decided to try it. After turn the deck on, the zener diode was blown again.

In a first moment I thought that maybe I had connected something wrong, so I tried another zener diode. Ocurred the same, always got it burned, and after three tries, the transistor was fried.

I ordered new parts and as a replacement for the 2SC1013, choose a 2SD1980, which I thought could be a better replacement (10 watts or max. power disipation againts 7 watts of the original one, and the gain, better that the original).

When I soldered this transistor and a new zener diode... always something were fried.

The rest of the components of the circuit were OK, so I tried to study the board and thought that maybe the problem were in the pin out of the transistors, and looking at the datasheet of the new transistor, the pin out was different from the original transistor.

Well, some fried elements later, I soldered new pieces and took care of the pin out of this transistor (the base and collector are interchanged). Crossed the fingers and turned the deck on. ¡¡¡It worked!!!.

Spent some hours putting all things and soldering wires to its original places and got the deck running and playing music. But still the problem of the speed switch.

Finally I used the power switch to be used in the place of the original speed switch, and had to make a fix with the actuator because the speed actuator if larger than the power on/off actuator, but it worked.

To replace then the power on/off switch I used another one from a parts cassette deck. That wasn't the same type, but could adapt it to work in its new place.

All seemed to be then solved, so I checked the rest of the things. Do you think that all was already fixed?. No. If had a wire unsoldered from the erase head and the heads needed to be demagnetized a few times and all switched cleaned to get clear sound.

But after looooots of hours on it, now this deck is in a perfect shape to be used again during the next years.

This morning I made a video of the Akai GX-600DB making company to the rest of my second setup. Hope you enjoy.

AN: Darth Vader's RTR deck

2008-03-15T13:32:00.006+01:00

A few days a go I bought a pair of ReVox black metal NAB hub adapters to use with the Grundig TS-1000, but looking at them, I thought that the black color reminded me to Darth Vader, so I started to think how would be his reel to reel deck if it had appeared in the movie.

As most of us know, TEAC decks were used in the production of the movie to record some special effects. In Star wars movie, a deck with digital counter would be on expected and of course, big reels.

My final guess is the following one:

- Teac X-2000R BL(lack)
- ReVox black metal NAB hub adapters
- 10.5" red metal reels

I could use another black faced deck, like the Grundig TS-1000, but as it has analog counters, the best scene would be a Teac X-2000, a Akai GX-747 or a Technics RS-1800. Since I have a Teac X-2000R BL, here are the shots:

Of course, the deck is playing "The Imperial March".

PER: Patrick Guide

2008-02-10T20:57:00.001+01:00

Patrick has three reel to reel decks in good condition, all 4 tracks 2 channels heads configuration in 1/4" tape.

The three decks are autoreverse and have three motors each one.

Teac A-4010 with the original Teac RE-711 metal reel.

Technics RS-1700 with the originals Technics RP-10A metal reel.

Teac X2000R BL with the original Teac RE-1003 metal reel.

New categorie

2008-02-10T20:49:00.000+01:00

If any reeler of the Reel To Reel Yahoo! group member would like to send me pics of their systems, I'll be pleasant of placing them here as PERsonal entry, so the new label will be "PER" for this kind of entries.

DES: Teac X-2000R

2008-02-06T19:33:00.001+01:00

This is the top of the line reel to reel model made by Teac. It's 4 tracks 2 channels in quater inch wide tape and can hold reels until 10.5" (26.7 cms.).

It has 6 heads (cobalt amorphous record and playback), fully bi-directional, 3 motors and dual capstan drive system (belt driven).

Two speeds, 7.5 ips (19 cm/s) and 3.75 ips (9.5 cm/s), electronic real time counter (hour, minutes and seconds) and fully tension servo control, which means that you can use any size of reel without adjusting the tension manually by a switch.

Was produced in silver and black:

Original japanese ad

It's one of the few machines that has a built-in decoder/encoder dbx type I professional noise reduction system. Other rare feature is that the machine can use "EE" tape (Extra Efficience = CrO2). I think that only Maxell, Akai and Basf produced "EE" tape.

The transport function is computerized and has functions like return-to-zero, return-to-cue, program, repeat, set-cue and reset the counter.

Original spanish ad

It's said that the Teac X-2000R maybe is the best consumer machine ever made, but for me it has at least one disavantadge: the use of lifters in the tape path to separate the tape of the heads during FF and RWD.

UPDATE

TDK also produced "EE" tape, which was labeled as "SA". Akai never produced his own "EE" tape, really the chrome tape inside Akai reels were produced by Maxell (XLII).

Thanks to Frank Oomen for the correction.

AN: Designing Akai R2R decks

2008-01-26T20:27:00.000+01:00

Imagine an Akai GX-635 with the metallic front in red color, a reels cover in silver with a small window to see the reels spinning.

All this and more was thought by the Akai's designers somewhere in the past.

To view the picture with more detail, click here to access a high resolution image.

TV: Stargate SG-1

2008-01-26T19:39:00.004+01:00

Release date: October 1997

Episode 1x11: Fire and Water

Nagra 4.2

Internet Movie Database Link

DOC: Ampex Tape List

2008-01-21T20:33:00.000+01:00

I found this list in 2002 in Internet while looking for some info about the type of tapes.

Here is an exact reproduction of the one that I downloaded about six years ago:

Ampex tape list -- Compiled by Scott Dorsey, NASA Langley Research Center

This list started out as a response to the huge number of people asking
questions about surplus instrumentation tape, developed into a short
description on identifying Ampex tapes, and then developed into an attempt
at categorizing all Ampex tapes made. This list is far from complete but
is a good beginning:

All tapes backcoated unless otherwise indicated (NB= Non-Backcoated)
-----------------------------------------------
021-- 1 mil rejected NB acetate tape (sold as Shamrock) (early 60s)
031-- 1.5 mil rejected mastering tape (maybe 406, 456, etc. depending on batch)
(Was available in 2500' pancakes as well as 7" reels in 1983)
041-- 1 mil version of 031 in 7" only
051-- 0.5 mil rejected NB acetate tape (sold as Shamrock) (early 60s)

101-- Betamax half-inch videocassette (intro before 1978)
102-- VHS videocassette (late seventies)
142-- Helical 2" format video tape for VR-660/1500 (1962-?)
144-- Transverse scan video tape (1964-?) for quad-format machines
145-- Helical 2" formulated for VR-660/1500 video recorders (1966-?) backcoated
147-- A-format tape formulated for VR-7000 video recorders (1965-?)
161-- 1" videotape (1968-?)
163-- 1/2" helical scan industrial videotape (1968-?)
164-- 1/2" helical scan videotape for color use
167-- U-Matic videocassette (replaced by 187/197) (late seventies, sold in 83)
(Sometimes this is labelled KCA-xx where xx indicates running time)
174-- 1/2" helical scan industrial videotape (1970s?)
175-- 2" Quad tape (backcoated) replacing 144 (sold until 1990)
187-- U-Matic videocassette
(Sometimes this is labelled KCA-xx where xx indicates running time)
188-- Older Beta videocassette
189-- VHS videocassette, NB (discontinued 199x?)
190-- 1" IVC/Sony format videotape (1983)
192-- 1" videotape (1970s) (replaced by 196)
194-- 1/2" helical scan industrial videotape (1970s through 1983)
196-- 1" B-format helical videotape (comes in two versions, earlier chrome
later cobalt oxide), wound oxide out.
197-- U-Matic 3/4" videocassette (coexists with 187, better quality tape)
198-- Beta videocassette (oxide) (replaced by 208) (1987-??)
199-- VHS videocassette, NB (? to some time between 1990 and 1995)

208-- Betacam 1/2" broadcast videocassette (oxide, not metal) (changed to BC in 1998)
211-- 1.5 mil NB Irish ??? (1963 sample)
219-- D-1 digital videocassette (replaced by 229) (1990)
220-- Degaussing and head cleaning cartridge for cassettes (not real tape)
228-- Degaussing and head cleaning cartridge for 8-track tape (not real tape)
229-- D-1 digital videocassette (renamed D1V in 1998)
288-- Hi-8mm videocassette
289-- S-VHS videocassette
292-- 1.0 mil polyester 1/4" audio backcoated on 7" reel, black oxide.
296-- 1" C-format helical videotape
297-- U-Matic SP videocassette
298-- Betacam SP 1/2" videocassette (metal) (replaced by 398) (1990)

301-- General purpose audio NB tape available on reel or cassette (1968-?)
304-- Tape optimized for low speed logging use (1968-?)
311-- Irish version of 511 (1962)
319-- D-2 digital videocassette (replaced by 329) (1988)
321-- Irish version of 521 (1962)
329-- D-2 digital videocassette
331-- Irish version of 531 (1962)
341-- Irish version of 541 (1962)
342-- 1.5 mil "Plus Series" NB consumer 1/4" tape (185 nWb/m) (1970s-1980s)
344-- 1 mil PE, low noise, non-backcoated 1/4" tape. (available in 1973)
345-- 1.5 mil red oxide tape (recommended for B&K 7004 recorder) (av in 1976)
351-- Irish version of 551 (1962)
352-- LO-NOISE compact cassette (lowest grade) (1978)
361-- Compact cassette tape (1969-?)
364-- 20/20 Plus cassette tape (mid grade) (pre-1978 to 1983)
365-- Grand Master type I cassette tape (pre-1978 to 1983)
366-- Grand Master type II cassette tape (pre-1978 to 1983)
370-- HOLN cassette tape lowest-grade (discontinued 1983)
371-- Plus Series cassette tape (lower grade) (1978)
372-- Ampex 406 on 7" reels for consumer use (mid/late 70s). "20-20 series"
373-- 1 mil version of 372
381-- Low grade 8-track cartridge (1976)
382-- Plus Series 8-track cartridge (1978)
388-- 20/20 Plus Series 8-track cartridge (1978)
389-- Grand Master 8-track cartridge (1978)
398-- Betacam SP videocassette (metal) (renamed BSP in 1998)

401-- 1.5 mil mastering tape.... probably pre-1965
404-- low-noise NB mastering tape (1965-?)
406-- 1.5 mil mastering tape (260 nWb/m)
407-- 1 mil version of 406
408-- 406 wound slightly differently for Nagra recorders. (Intro 1997)
411-- 1.5 mil NB (sample dated 1964)
434-- 1.5 mil non-backcoated high-output brown-oxide consumer tape (1960s)
444-- 1 mil version of 434
456-- 1.5 mil mastering tape (370 nWb/m)
457-- 1 mil version of 456 (available only in 7" 1/4" reel)
460-- Digital audio tape (backcoated) for 3M machines (deleted 1982)
467-- 4mm DAT tape backcoated, now called DAT (1998)
467-- U-Matic oxide tape for digital audio, now called DAU (1998)
467-- oxide 1/4" NAGRA-D, 1" for Pro-Digit, 1/2" for DASH tape for digital audio
472-- Stereo audio cassettes (CrO2, NB) (250 nW/m)
478-- 1.5 mil low-print mastering tape (250 nWb/m)
480-- 1.5 mil Quantegy equiv. of 3M 908, modified 478 coat w/ smoother B (1997) for Nagra
488-- 8mm tape designed for DTRS (Tascam DA-88) use, backcoated. (now DA8 in 98)
489-- S-VHS tape designed for Alesis ADAT use, backcoated. (now ADAT in 98)
499-- 1.5 mil mastering tape (520 nWb/m)

511-- 1.5 mil acetate version of 531 (1962)
521-- 1 mil acetate version of 531 (1962)
531-- "premium tape for semi-professional and home use" 1.5 mil NB Mylar 5", 7" (1962). Red oxide
541-- 1.0 mil mylar base version of 531 (1962) Looks like later 641 tape.
551-- 0.5 mil mylar base version of 531 (1962)

601-- .66 mil Cassette duplicating pancakes (NB) (1978)
602-- .44 mil version of 601
603-- .66 mil High performance cassette pancake (NB) (1979)
604-- .44 mil version of 603
607-- Thick standard bias cassette loads (NB) (1983)
608-- Thin standard bias cassette loads (NB) (1983)
609-- Thick chrome casssette loads (NB) (1983)
610-- Thin chrome casssette loads (NB) (1983)
611-- 1.5 mil brown oxide NB acetate (7" samples dated to 1963-1971)
617-- 0.5 mil FeO2 cassette bulk-load pancake
618-- 0.3 mil version of 617
619-- .62 mil cassette duplication pancake (pre-1988-1993)
620-- .46 mil version of 619 (pre-1988-1993)
621-- 1 mil version of 611
631-- 1.5 mil non-backcoated "red oxide" voice-grade audio tape (185 nW/m)
632-- 1.5 mil non-backcoated "brown oxide" LNHO duplicating tape (185 nW/m)
638-- Empty 7" 1/4" accessory reel (not tape)
641-- 1 mil version of 631 (1960s-present)
642-- 1 mil equivalent of 632
651-- 0.5 mil version of 641
660-- HOLN black shell bulk cassettes (discontinued 1983)
661-- 0.5 mil version of 641 with thinner oxide (1968-present) (cassette or 1/4)
671-- 0.75 mil LNER non-backcoated extended-length tape (cassette or 1/4)
672-- FeO2 audio cassette (discontinued 1993)
674-- Cassette, low noise for high speed duplication. (existed in 1978, not now)
675-- 8-track cartridge pancakes, back-lubricated
678-- Cassette (discontinued)

700-- 1 mil NB low speed logging with very thick coating (1978)
701-- 1 mil NB low speed logging tape (replaced by 704) (1978)
702-- 1 mil backcoated tape with same coating as 701 (1978)
703-- 0.5 mil version of 702 (1978)
704-- 1 mil non-backcoated low speed logging tape
705-- 1 mil backcoated low speed logging tape (same coating as 704)
706-- 0.5 mil backcoated low speed logging tape (same coating as 704)
721-- 1 mil Digital PCM instrumentation tape (cobalt)
722-- 0.8 mil Double Density digital PCM instrumentation tape (cobalt)
731-- Data cartridge for Ampex Digital Cassette Recorder (lower error rate)
733-- Data cartridge for Ampex Digital Cassette Recorder
738-- ?? NB instrumentation-
741-- ?? NB instrumentation- (circa 1962)
756-- 1 mil Intermediate band NB instrumentation- replaced by 766 in 1984
760-- Wideband instrumentation tape, NB (1966)
761-- 1 mil standard coat 1" or 1/2" NB low band FM instrumentation (1965)
762-- 1 mil thin coating 1" or 1/2" NB low band FM instrumentation (1965)
763-- 1.5 mil standard coat 1" or 1/2" NB low band FM instrumentation (1965)
764-- 1.5 mil thin coating 1" or 1/2" NB low band FM instrumentation (1965)
766-- 1 mil Intermediate band NB instrumentation- replaced by 767 in 1986
767-- 1 mil Intermediate band instrumentation tape
770-- Wideband instrumentation tape, NB (1966)
771-- Tape for FR-1800 instrumentation recorder (1965)
775-- 2" transverse scan instrumentation tape (probably selected 175)
782-- 1 mil wideband NB instrument tape (1972 or so) (replaced by 787)
786-- 1 mil NB High Resolution (1978)
787-- 1 mil backcoated High Resolution (1978) (replaced by 797)
795-- High Resolution (intermediate band with low drop-outs) instrumentation
79A-- Variant of 797 made for government use only
797-- 1 mil wideband instrumentation tape
799-- 1 mil High bit density digital PCM tape

831-- computer tape (1966)
832-- 1/2" computer tape (1965-?)
834-- computer tape (1966)
836-- 1/2" 1600 bpi computer tape (1965-late 70s?)
837-- computer tape (1966)
838-- 1/2" computer tape (1965-?)
836-- computer tape (1966)
870-- 1/2" IBM-compatible computer tape (CATT) with new binder (1968)

8206-- 1 mil backcoated low speed logging tape (a 3M design), similar to 705.

ADAT- Formerly part 489 (1998)
BC -- Formerly part 208 (1998)
BSP-- Formerly part 398 (1998)
CDR-- Compact Disc Recordable (1994)
CDR1- Data tape cartridge (1968)
DA8-- Formerly part 488 (1998)
DAU-- Formerly part 467 in U-Matic (1998)
DAT-- Formerly part 467 in DAT (1998)
DBC-- Digital Betacam cartridge, metal particle tape (1998)
DDS-- 4mm DAT tape tested to DDS standards (1995)
DD1-- 19mm oxide tape for D-1 video format
DD8-- 8mm data cartridge (Exabyte style) (1995)
D1V-- Formerly part 229 (1998)
DV -- Tape for Ampex DCT recorder, 19mm metal D2-type cartridge (1998)
GP9-- 1/2", and 2" backcoated 320 nW/m high output mastering tape (1998)
HG -- A VHS videocassette offered until 1997.
ID2-- 19mm metal D-2 videotape.
MDR-- Recordable Minidisc (1998)
MOD-- Rewritable magneto-optical disk (1995)

Notes:

Ampex Plus-Series is a non-backcoated tape sold for consumer recording
into the early 1980s. 1 mil, dark color, on 7" reels with leaders only.

All items without dates listed are current production items as far as
this writing (1998).

Note that many instrumentation tapes come on rugged Precision reels rather
than normal NAB reels; they will fit on the same hubs but you cannot
exchange flanges.

LNER= Low Noise Extended Range
LNHO= Low Noise High Output
NB= Non-Backcoated

Many thanks to George LaForgia from Quantegy/Ampex and Howard Sanner
at the Library of Congress for assistance in compiling parts of this list.

Sept. 1963: "'A' and 'B' oxide instrumentation tapes, two new
heavy duty tapes offering higher performance and longer life than
previously available Ampex tapes, offered at standard prices."

July 1965: "Ampex 770 series tapes for extended bandwidth
instrumentation recording."

Revised 25 Mar 2002.

DOC: Capitol Catalogue, October 1964

2008-01-21T20:17:00.000+01:00

Scanned from the original insert catalogue that came inside "Soviet Army Chorus & Band" tape.
Click on each one to get a high resolution image.

Page 1/4:

Page 2/4:

Page 3/4:

Page 4/4:

REP: Restoring Pioneer RT-707 VU meters

2008-01-20T17:37:00.000+01:00

Although it's rare that the red color turn into a discolored orange, I found it in a deck that has been lot of years exposed to direct sunshine in a sunny area somewhere in the south of France.

When I bought this deck thru eBay, I ditn't realized in the discolored meters. Really I bought it to restore, since it was announced as a not working unit.

More than one year has passed from that moment. I asked other people for ideas to restore the color again and, after thinking all purposes, finally decided to make a new scale using a computer paint program. The idea was to make the new ones just exactly the original ones.

I worked with high resolution images with several layers, put over a pic of the original scale to ensure that new scale is in the same place. One problem was the original font used for "PIONEER ELECTRONIC CORP.". After searching for more than one hour, I found a very similar but not identical, but close enough to pass the test of anyone.

After opening the deck and get the meters accesible, I disoldered both so that I can work with them safelly and more confortable.

To open the meter is very easy. Like most cases, it only has a few pieces of adhesive tape, in this case, three. After cutting them, the cover of the meter can be removed:

The scale is printed over a fine metallic piece, so I used a cutter between it and the plastic base of the meter to cut the glue that join both. It must be done very slow and carefully.

I decided to print the new scales into stikers so that I can adhesive them in the other side of the original metallic piece where was the old scale.

One problem is to find the adecuate mosts similar background color to the original one. Although I took different shots, I were sure that after printing it would be different.

In a DIN A4 paper I printed 16 stickers, 4 left and 4 right, one time with a darker background that the original one, and one time with a lighter background.

After printing it in a laser color printer, none of them had the same background tone color than the original one, so I decided to use the lighter one although it was mostly identical to the white color.

Before put the cover of the meters, I tried to reduce the scratches in the transparent plastic cover, so I used toothpaste bacause is a good polish that respects well the transparent plastics.

Isn't easy to put the sticker perfectly over the metallic part so that the scale be perfectly where was the original.

And here is the final result:

And a closed pics of the meters, before and after restoring:

TIP: How to pack a reel to reel deck for shipping

2008-01-16T19:26:00.000+01:00

Each time I've bought a open reel deck, always describe how I want to be packed the deck so that it arrives alive and intact.

Although these machines are heavy, they are also delicate and they don't like hits during shipping. You must to think about this issue very seriously. If you think that a box will be enough for a safe travel, you are wrong.

Look how must NOT be packed a reel to reel deck:

Now I'll try to describe the process to pack one of this machines correctly.

Protect the spindles of the reel tables, they are very delicate. If your deck has NAB hub adapters, put them, if not, cut a square piece of packaging material and make it a hole where will be hidden the spindle. Do the same with the other spindle.
If the deck has more delicate parts like spindles (switches, tension arms, knobs) that are suitable to break, protect them as said in point 1.
Buy transparent film, the one used for food and cover te entire deck with it. Put lots of layers, it will convert into 'not-so-transparent'.
Get a box about 8 or 10 inches bigger than the deck in each dimension.
Buy packing peanuts and throw them inside the box, until you make a 4 or 5 inches deep layer.
Put the deck in the center of the box, over the bed of packing peanuts. You must have enough space in the left, right, top and bottom.
Add packing peanuts to fill the sides of the deck, so that all free space is covered by them. Left, right, bottom, top and over the deck. The deck must be hidden with packing peanuts.
The deck is now protected by the six sides with packing peanuts, so close the box.
The job isn't finished... we need to pack the box too!, yes, the box must be packed inside another bigger box, so:
Get a box 8 or 10 inches bigger than the "small" box.
Throw packing peanuts inside the big box, until you make a 4 or 5 inches deep layer.
Put the small box inside the big box, centered and refill all spaces in the top, bottom, left, right and over with packing peanuts too.
Close the big box.

I know this can seem exaggerated, but isn't. At the beginning of this entry is showed a box that I pictured as an example of how NOT to pack a reel to reel deck.

Maybe you thought it arrived in good shape. I bought it maybe four or five years ago in Italy. I paid extra money so that the deck would packed following my instructions and the seller got the money and did what he wanted. The result was more than 420 euros converted into garbage.

Look carefully at the next pictures:

An open reel deck must be always double boxed.

AN: Find the differences

2008-01-16T00:28:00.000+01:00

Today I've sat in the bench two identical decks to check why one seemed to be faster than the other one.

After doing some electrical measurements, the voltage is more or less the same, even the slowest deck gets more volts in the reel motors and they rotate "without" friction, the same as the other compared deck.

In a first time I thought that there were some electrical problem in the deck, but after doing the measures into the two decks, all doubts were resolved: they both are in good state.

However, one is faster than the other one during RWD and the back tension has been revised.

Do you like to find differences between two images?. Look carefully, they seem identical, but there are differences:

DES: ReVox 7" metal blue reel

2008-01-08T03:06:00.000+01:00

ReVox is a brand well-knowned in the reel to reel recorders world. Most of the ReVox material is legendary, from machines to accesories.

But there is one object not so popular, the hard to find 7" metal blue reel.

It has 3 holes "in line" with 3 philips screws. It's very width, so it's very difficult that the tape touch the flanges. It has no slots where to hold the tape.

The design is almost identical to the AGFA-GEVAERT 7" metal reel, except in one detail: the hub. If you look carefully to the pic, the hub where the spindle gets the reel isn't part of the blue reel, it's part of the hub and it's made of (I think) a very hard plastic which doesn't get marked in spite of the use.

It's made of a hard aluminium that won't bend easily. It looks nice with a Pioneer RT-707 and even in bigger decks like the Pioneer RT-909.

DES: Dokorder 7" metal reel

2008-01-07T14:00:00.000+01:00

Sometime ago I discovered the interesting look of the Dokorder metal reels, however I didn't think about getting one until this past month, where a paranormal force told me that I had to buy one of those beauties ;)

So I did. After lost a few auctions I finally got one at the price of $57 + shipping... $77 was the total price for me to pay.

In spite of being one of the more expensive prices than I have paid for an empty 7" reel, it worths the money.

I've just taken some shots of the reel in a Pioneer RT-707.

In pause.

Running at 19 cm/s.

Two closer shots.

As can be watched in the pics, the reel has six rounded holes "in line" with the other side of the reel. The flanges of the reel are fatter than the ones of a Maxell MR-7. It's made of a strong aluminium. Three philips screws by side that are screwed into the hub and provided with three slots to hold the tape.

MOV: Das Leben der Anderen

2008-01-02T23:26:00.004+01:00

Release date: February 2007

Uher 4000

Unknown (possibly it's a german machine because has DIN output speakers connectors in the bottom face of the machine)

Internet Movie Database Link

MOV: Dreamgirls

2008-01-02T23:16:00.003+01:00

Release date: January 2007

Pioneer T-6600

3M M79

Akai M7

Ampex 350

Internet Movie Database Link

MOV: Where is the old site "Reel to reel in movies"?

2008-01-02T22:53:00.000+01:00

It's closed. However, I've uploaded it again to another address as historic information:

http://www.matrixhifi.com/r2r/r2rmovies.htm

MOV: Zodiac

2008-01-02T12:06:00.002+01:00

Release date: May 2007

Ampex AG440

Internet Movie Database Link

MOV: Un franco, 14 pesetas

2008-01-02T04:37:00.003+01:00

Release date: May 2006

Grundig TK-145 deluxe

Internet Movie Database Link

MOV: Music and lyrics

2008-01-02T04:33:00.002+01:00

Release date: April 2007

Tascam MSR 16

Internet Movie Database Link

Happy new year 2008

2008-01-01T01:57:00.000+01:00

With reels, of course.

TIP: Testing alignment

2007-12-31T13:20:00.000+01:00

To do a good diagnostic about head alignment, and to do a good alignment job, is needed an alignment test tape and some hardware like a frequence counter.

I wanted to align a Grundig TS-1000 play head and decided to use other decks to help me in a home made method. I compare the sound of a tape, in real time, between the Grundig and other two decks, a Pioneer RT-1020H and a Pioneer RT-707.

To do this is easy and very helpful. I made a video showing the moment when I test the sound of the just aligned deck. However, the sound of the RT-707 was wrost than normal because there were hardly back tension. If the tape is played back normally, the sound is correct.

Anyway, the RT-1020H is enough for the purpose. I used the same method in the past to test the sound of the RT-707 when I did alignment and was very accurate.

VID: Pioneer RT-1020H running at 7.5 ips

2007-12-31T11:54:00.000+01:00

Here is a Pioneer RT-1020H playing a Basf LP35 tape where is recorded Kraftwerk's "Tour de France" album. The sound quality is real good. The tape was recorded from vinyl in the first play.

TIP: Save some Ampex tapes

2007-12-30T22:45:00.000+01:00

Most of the people that are in this hobby know that there are some Ampex tapes that have problems in the backcoated layer.

These tapes are identified easily even without playing them. Just pass the tape at high speed and if it goes slow at the middle end of the tape or sometimes even the deck's motors can't move the reels, the it's one of this bad tapes.

In the past I threw away some of these tapes to the gargabe thinking that there weren't any manner to save them, but this last week I've been trying to test some things and maybe this works for some of you.

First, make sure you have one tape that would go to the gargabe.

Place the reel in the deck and don't thread it thru the tape normal path because this would soil all the tape path and tension arms. Thread the tape directly to the take up reel. Most of the decks won't go to FF mode if some tension arm is untensioned, so use something so that the deck work in FF mode.

Take a cosmetic cottom disc and double it so that you can hold the tape inside the cottom. Tighten your fingers as much as you can againts both sides of the cottom disc and keeping them firm, press FF.

The deck won't be able to move because your fingers are doing too much force, so make a bit less force so that the tape can travel from the supply reel to the take up reel.

Be careful doing this procedure. Sometimes the tape makes force unspected tensions and the tape can break or makes the cottom disc to fly away. It's normal to stop in the middle of the run to watch how is the cottom disc. Maybe is needed to use one new because thh actual is very dirty.

Today, with a 10" reel full of Ampex 406 tape, I've used six cottom discs and made 12 times this procedure:

The last time, I placed isopropanol in the cottom disc to test what happened and was useful. Didn't damage the tape and cleaned well.

After all tape travels, I've recorded the longest side of a LP and cut the tape. I prefer to make short tapes from a big reel in these cases, so I make one tape = one LP (or CD).

I know that this won't convert bad tape into "as new", but maybe you can convert a "gargabe tape" into usable tape.

I've tested this method with three 10" reels, two of Ampex 478 low print and one of Ampex 406. There's no an exact numbers of travels to clean a tape. Sometimes you play the tape and the tape path or heads get dirty, so make more clean travels.

VID: ReVox B77 running at 15/16 ips

2007-12-28T01:31:00.004+01:00

The ReVox B77 is a common machine and it's wasy to find videos about it in YouTube... but not as this one.

Here is my MKII SLS (super low speed) running at 15/16 ips (2.38 cm/s) with big reels:

UPDATE

There was an error with the speed measured in inches per second. It said 1 7/8 ips and it's really 15/16 ips.

TIP: Removing old stickers from reels

2007-12-25T14:38:00.000+01:00

Most of us have reels with stickers in one or both sides and maybe one day we want to remove them and it's a impossible mission or at least, a very difficult thread to remove them without problems.

Someone told me a good tip to do this easily. The surface where is the old sticker must be heated using a hair dryer very close to the area.

I've just done this with this reel:

Pass the tape to another reel:

Once it's empty of tape, it can be used the hair dryer:

After a few minutes the sticker can be removed slowly without too many problems:

Once all stickers are removed, the tape can be wound again to its original reel:

It's an easy tip but very useful. If there's any mark of glue in the reel, clean it with isopropanol and it will look as new.

VID: Grundig TS-1000 with new leds

2007-12-20T11:45:00.000+01:00

The Grundig TS-1000 was the top of the line of the Grundig brand and was his last reel to reel made. Was fabricated about 1976 and has three speeds, 7.5, 3.75 and 1.875 ips plus a varispeed that goes from lower than 1.875 ips to higher than 7.5 ips.

The tension is electronic controled by optical sensors in tension arms. How lower is the position of the tension arm, higher is the voltage of that motor and vice versa.

All transport functions are sensi-touch buttons, you don't need to press the button, just touch it with a finger. These buttons has a 5mm. led on top of them to mark which function is enabled at any moment, event the STOP mode. The original ones were all red and I've recently changed all them with new ones in different colors. Red for RECORD, bluw for FF and RWD, orange for PAUSE, green for PLAY and flashing yellow for STOP.

I made a video where is showed how does it look like now:

In the video the leds seem to light too much, but is an effect fue that the camera was just in front of the deck. Next pics shows how much light you can see if you don't watch them just in the axis of their light:

REP: Pioneer RT-1020H VU meter lamps

2007-12-18T21:33:00.000+01:00

The next step with the Pioneer was to substitute meter lamps. The original ones are poor bright. When changed the rec leds measured the voltage across the meter lamps and was 5V AC.

This time as spare part I used Christmas lights... yes, I thought they could be perfect for this job because they are 6V AC, then I used two in paralel by meter so that the bright were correct... in theory.

I cut a piece with 6 bulbs and made a fix so that the lights outside still working.

This was the original bulbs inside the meters in the Pioneer RT-1020H just a minutes before I began to do the job.

To start, I unscrewed the bottom front panel. There are only four screws and pull out all knobs and the bottom panel can be retired.

I shot pics from the right and left meter to reminder me where was each wire, because I prefered to unweld the wires and work in the meter stand-alone on top of the table.

To open the meter it's very easy. On the back it has two little pieces of adhesive tape. I cut it and opened the meter to access to the bulb and unweld it.

These are the original meter lamps:

And these are the Christmas lamps that I'd use, two per meter:

After doing the job, this is the final result:

They not bright too much, I think that the amount of light is the correct in each meter if I compare it with other meters.

There were been better to use original spare parts, but if you are in a hurry or don't want to spend money in used or NOS parts that are a lot of years old, this could be a solution.

REP: Pioneer RT-1020H rec leds

2007-12-18T15:24:00.000+01:00

Today I've decided to open this unit to try to access the rec leds to replace both.

All we know that leds last lot of time, but with +30 years they aren't so bright and the red color is dark. As I had bought five 5 mm. red leds and used only one, I wanted to replace the old ones with these transparent brand new red leds.

Watching the deck I thought that easiest way yo access the leds was to open the bottom front panel. To do that, it was necesary to pull out all the knobs. My first problem was with the smalest ones, the vertical switches for REC, PLAY, METERS and MONITOR. The original owner had glued them to the switchs, so I decided to use some contact cleaner and use... the force, but carefully for not to make any mark.

After some seconds of uncertainty, I was able to remove them:

The switches were full of dry glue:

After that, the four screws of the bottom front panel can be unscrewed. I noticed that the upper screws were longer than the bottom ones. Now I can pull off the bottom front panel.

Although I even unscrewed all screws from the rectangular black panel, it was very hard to pull it out. On the other side there were lot of wires and a big capacitor with the wires too short, so I decided to open the backside of the deck to try to access the leds from the back, but before do it, I measured the voltage in the VU meters lamps for a future replacement because they light just a few. They are 5V AC.

After removing the back panel of the deck, I unscrewed the small boards where are the leds, each one in a very small board as can be watched in the next pic:

Good moment to clean the fuses with some contact cleaner. The right ones are used for the VU meters lamps.

There's no too much space to use the iron rinner. It would be easier to do it from the front panel, but as I said before, I didn't want to pull it off because the big capacitor that is shown in the pics, so... patiente and good pulse.

After several times where leds fell inside, I was able to get them in the correct place:

The new ones are transparent but they light in a bright red color. After testing them using a small battery to be sure that they were correctly placed in the board, I screwed both boards again:

This picture was taken from the front side of the deck to show if they were correctly put in their original places.

Now this is the look of the front side with the new leds. First pic in play mode and the second in rec mode:

They now look pretty and always know when I'm in recording mode. Sometime ago I thought I was recording and had the rec switches off, but the leds seemed to be lighting due to the direct light of the sun. This won't ever occur with these transparent leds.

TIP: Pioneer PP-220A adaptors

2007-12-17T02:01:00.000+01:00

When they were new maybe they worked well, but today it's possible that they don't make a good job fixing propertly the big reels fulled of tape. You can solve it easily...

TIP: How to add leader tape

2007-12-17T01:45:00.000+01:00

You have already readed how to do it. But, did you watched it?...